Hyd Explorations -1 : Golconda and Shiparamam

I am in Hyderabad now - City of Pearls, City of tradition and most important of all - Biryani City. So far I havevisited Golconda and Shilparamam.

Shilparamam is near Hi-tec city in Madhapur. The entry fee is Rs. 20 per person. And they also gave me a complementary 2008 monthly calendar written fully in Telugu(May be I should look out for "Learn Telugu in 30 days" now) .Shilparamam is more like a "Coimbatore Exhibition" except for the fact that the flavour is different a bit and there are many more things to explore. There are pearl shops, fancy item shops(few are costlier than Chennai Pondy Bazaar Shops and some are cheaper), many wood works, handicrafts, chamki works - especially the chamki work dresses were mind blowing but I didn't like the quality of the cloth much and it was very dark to make a choice(Here in Hyd, I feel it gets dark very early) and a few special places/ stalls to attract visitors. Made a quick visit as the Indian Crafts exhibition is only till 31st December. Will have to visit again to explore more.

Let me now go to Golconda, I dont remember the entry fees. I think it was Rs. 10 or Rs.20. I have visited this earlier. But wanted to go around it more patiently.

Disclaimer: Whatever information regarding the fort is written here were heard from guides(when I visited 1 year back) and random readings.

Coming to Golconda, the fort was build by Qutb Shahi kings, whose tombs are next to Golconda(yet to visit). Few things abt Golconda - it now has the remains of the fort which got ruined when Aurangazeb raided.
I have visited many forts but nothing has impressed me like this fort - If I hadn't done engineering, I would have gone into archaeology or may be I lived in forts during my previous birth:-) . I like this fort better than others - may be because despite the ruins, many parts are still intact and you could still find architectural marvels.
Few things you can see there:
1. A weight tied to a handle.
It seems those days, to get monthly wages, the soldiers will have to carry this weight (there were actually two) - one in each hand from the palace gate to the top of the fort. It was a kind of physical fitness examination too. And they were given grains as monthly wages.
2. Taramati Baradari
This has a secret passage to Charminar(which is obviously closed now by a huge rock), via which the king can reach Charminar in 5 minutes.
3. A ruined university(not clearly demarcable)
It seems this was as famous as Nalanda University and foreign students came here and took up residential courses.
4. Ramdas Prison(Ramdas Bandi Khana)
Gopanna also known as Bhaktha Ramdas was a good minister. But few ministers who were jealous of his status in the King's court charged him of being traitor as he spent government money for the renovation of a temple without permission. So he was put into a underground prison for around 12 years during which he didn't have any external contact. There was a hole at the top of his prison through which sunlight entered and through which food and water were sent to him. So during this years, he has inscribed the images of Goddess Saraswathi and other Gods in the walls of his prison.
5. Granary to store grains
6. Rooms of Queens
7. Horse stables
8. Taramati Masjid
A mosque for Taramati to pray after she got converted to Muslim religion
9. One Kali temple and Nandi temple at the top of the fort
10. Water tanks.
There were step by step tanks - meaning tanks at each level using which the water was first transported/moved from first level to the next and so on till the top of the fort.
11. Gun powder artillery
12. Place to bathe the dead of the royal family before taking them for burial

And gardens and fountains and many more.

Version of the Taramati/Bhagmathi story as heard from the guide a year back:
Taramati and Bhagyamathi were two dancers and the king fell in love with both. When he proposed, Taramati was there but Bhagyamathi ran away out of shy(Bhagyamathi sharmaake baag gayi). So he married Taramathi ; renamed her Hyder Begum; and created a town in the name of Bhagmathi (Bhagya nagar).

Other version which I read, which seems more true:
Bhagmathi was the prime courtesan during King Abdullah Qutb Shah's grandfather's (mohammed Quli Qutb Shah) times. The same way Taramati and Premamati were famous courtesans during King Abdullah Qutb Shah's times and Taramati was the prime courtesan and was close to the King. It seems as a honour to them, their tombs are placed next to the Kings in Qutb Shahi tombs.

Places yet to visit:
Purani Haveli (and Nizam's museum)
Chowmahalla Palace
Qutb Shahi Tombs
King Kothi Palace
Asman Garh Palace
Falaknuma Palace - it seems they are converting it to luxury hotel

Any information regarding the above places is welcome.


P.S: Sorry! Will take photos next time

Further explorations of Bangalore

On Karnaka formation day(1st November 2007), me and my roomie decided to visit Nrityagram(www.nrityagram.org) - My first trip out with somebody (usually I go alone)since I came to Bangalore.

Nrityagram is a residential dance school founded by dancer Protima Gauri. It is situated in Hesaraghatta village which can be reached by 1 hour journey from Majestic/Kempegowda bus stand, Bangalore. The onward journey is through a different route and the return journey is by another route as the roads are very narrow for two-lane transport.

From Hesaraghatta bus stand, Nrityagram is at a distance of 5 km which can be reached by auto(which costed Rs. 60). The auto driver even gives you his cell phone number to call him when we decide to return(as people come there only by their own cars or mode of transport. So there are no autos/cabs to take you back from Nrityagram to bus stand). Exactly opposite to Nrityagram is a Resort named Kuteeram of Taj Group.
But all through the way, we enjoyed the scenary very much, that we decided to walk back and covered the 5 kms by walk during return. On the way, we saw poultry farm, turkey farm, emu farm and a dam.
Coming back to Nrityagram, it follows the Gurukul method of education. Dance is taught free of cost. Food, Stay is all free. The only thing a student has to do is stay there for three years to learn it.
We were allowed to photograph everything other than dancers. There are separate buildings constructed for each type of dance - Bharathanatyam, Odissi, Mohini Aattam, Kathak, etc.But when we went there, only Odissi classes were going on and only at the most 2 students were there as nobody was ready to take off 3 years of their life to dedicate to learn dancing.
We could see sculptures everywhere; a temple dedicated to Protima; a yoga centre, a kitchen; separate buildings for visitors to stay; buildings for students and teachers.There was an amphitheatre where dance programmes were held during "Vasanth Habba"(Spring Festival). What impressed me most is the buildings and environment. All buildings including kitchen looks like "Kuteers" of sages that were in Gurukul times. And each building for different forms is build according to the style where the dance form originated from. For eg: the building which houses classroom for Mohini Aattam will be in the style of Kerala and so on. And its green everywhere around. The place is cared for well. A must visit!

Total cost per person:
Domlur to Majestic(in Volvo) - Rs. 25
Majestic to Hesaraghatta bus stand(by bus) - Rs.10
Hesaraghatta bus stand to Nrityagram(by auto) - Rs.60
Entrance fee for Nrityagram - Rs. 20

I also visited "HAL Aeronuatical museum" and Kemp fort one Saturday. HAL museum may be a good visit for people who have interest in aeronautics. For me, I was just looking at the photos of presidents and prime ministers of different countries who visited during the building of different aircrafts. The entry fee was Rs. 20. I could say that another Rs. 10 charged for going to Air traffic control room was a waste, because the only thing you could see from there in seeing planes landing or taking off from runway, as if you are situated in a building next to airport.

And regarding Kempfort, I saw the big statues of Lord Ganesha and Lord Shiva. One thing which irked me there was that , one can buy diyas, light it and leave it in the small artifical pond created there. But the people who were cleaning the premises using water from water hose were pouring the water on diyas(not intentionally though) which blew off the light of the lighted diyas. Hope someone takes care of it.