Hyd Explorations -1 : Golconda and Shiparamam
I am in Hyderabad now - City of Pearls, City of tradition and most important of all - Biryani City. So far I havevisited Golconda and Shilparamam.
Shilparamam is near Hi-tec city in Madhapur. The entry fee is Rs. 20 per person. And they also gave me a complementary 2008 monthly calendar written fully in Telugu(May be I should look out for "Learn Telugu in 30 days" now) .Shilparamam is more like a "Coimbatore Exhibition" except for the fact that the flavour is different a bit and there are many more things to explore. There are pearl shops, fancy item shops(few are costlier than Chennai Pondy Bazaar Shops and some are cheaper), many wood works, handicrafts, chamki works - especially the chamki work dresses were mind blowing but I didn't like the quality of the cloth much and it was very dark to make a choice(Here in Hyd, I feel it gets dark very early) and a few special places/ stalls to attract visitors. Made a quick visit as the Indian Crafts exhibition is only till 31st December. Will have to visit again to explore more.
Let me now go to Golconda, I dont remember the entry fees. I think it was Rs. 10 or Rs.20. I have visited this earlier. But wanted to go around it more patiently.
Disclaimer: Whatever information regarding the fort is written here were heard from guides(when I visited 1 year back) and random readings.
Coming to Golconda, the fort was build by Qutb Shahi kings, whose tombs are next to Golconda(yet to visit). Few things abt Golconda - it now has the remains of the fort which got ruined when Aurangazeb raided.
I have visited many forts but nothing has impressed me like this fort - If I hadn't done engineering, I would have gone into archaeology or may be I lived in forts during my previous birth:-) . I like this fort better than others - may be because despite the ruins, many parts are still intact and you could still find architectural marvels.
Few things you can see there:
1. A weight tied to a handle.
It seems those days, to get monthly wages, the soldiers will have to carry this weight (there were actually two) - one in each hand from the palace gate to the top of the fort. It was a kind of physical fitness examination too. And they were given grains as monthly wages.
2. Taramati Baradari
This has a secret passage to Charminar(which is obviously closed now by a huge rock), via which the king can reach Charminar in 5 minutes.
3. A ruined university(not clearly demarcable)
It seems this was as famous as Nalanda University and foreign students came here and took up residential courses.
4. Ramdas Prison(Ramdas Bandi Khana)
Gopanna also known as Bhaktha Ramdas was a good minister. But few ministers who were jealous of his status in the King's court charged him of being traitor as he spent government money for the renovation of a temple without permission. So he was put into a underground prison for around 12 years during which he didn't have any external contact. There was a hole at the top of his prison through which sunlight entered and through which food and water were sent to him. So during this years, he has inscribed the images of Goddess Saraswathi and other Gods in the walls of his prison.
5. Granary to store grains
6. Rooms of Queens
7. Horse stables
8. Taramati Masjid
A mosque for Taramati to pray after she got converted to Muslim religion
9. One Kali temple and Nandi temple at the top of the fort
10. Water tanks.
There were step by step tanks - meaning tanks at each level using which the water was first transported/moved from first level to the next and so on till the top of the fort.
11. Gun powder artillery
12. Place to bathe the dead of the royal family before taking them for burial
And gardens and fountains and many more.
Version of the Taramati/Bhagmathi story as heard from the guide a year back:
Taramati and Bhagyamathi were two dancers and the king fell in love with both. When he proposed, Taramati was there but Bhagyamathi ran away out of shy(Bhagyamathi sharmaake baag gayi). So he married Taramathi ; renamed her Hyder Begum; and created a town in the name of Bhagmathi (Bhagya nagar).
Other version which I read, which seems more true:
Bhagmathi was the prime courtesan during King Abdullah Qutb Shah's grandfather's (mohammed Quli Qutb Shah) times. The same way Taramati and Premamati were famous courtesans during King Abdullah Qutb Shah's times and Taramati was the prime courtesan and was close to the King. It seems as a honour to them, their tombs are placed next to the Kings in Qutb Shahi tombs.
Places yet to visit:
Purani Haveli (and Nizam's museum)
Chowmahalla Palace
Qutb Shahi Tombs
King Kothi Palace
Asman Garh Palace
Falaknuma Palace - it seems they are converting it to luxury hotel
Any information regarding the above places is welcome.
P.S: Sorry! Will take photos next time
Shilparamam is near Hi-tec city in Madhapur. The entry fee is Rs. 20 per person. And they also gave me a complementary 2008 monthly calendar written fully in Telugu(May be I should look out for "Learn Telugu in 30 days" now) .Shilparamam is more like a "Coimbatore Exhibition" except for the fact that the flavour is different a bit and there are many more things to explore. There are pearl shops, fancy item shops(few are costlier than Chennai Pondy Bazaar Shops and some are cheaper), many wood works, handicrafts, chamki works - especially the chamki work dresses were mind blowing but I didn't like the quality of the cloth much and it was very dark to make a choice(Here in Hyd, I feel it gets dark very early) and a few special places/ stalls to attract visitors. Made a quick visit as the Indian Crafts exhibition is only till 31st December. Will have to visit again to explore more.
Let me now go to Golconda, I dont remember the entry fees. I think it was Rs. 10 or Rs.20. I have visited this earlier. But wanted to go around it more patiently.
Disclaimer: Whatever information regarding the fort is written here were heard from guides(when I visited 1 year back) and random readings.
Coming to Golconda, the fort was build by Qutb Shahi kings, whose tombs are next to Golconda(yet to visit). Few things abt Golconda - it now has the remains of the fort which got ruined when Aurangazeb raided.
I have visited many forts but nothing has impressed me like this fort - If I hadn't done engineering, I would have gone into archaeology or may be I lived in forts during my previous birth:-) . I like this fort better than others - may be because despite the ruins, many parts are still intact and you could still find architectural marvels.
Few things you can see there:
1. A weight tied to a handle.
It seems those days, to get monthly wages, the soldiers will have to carry this weight (there were actually two) - one in each hand from the palace gate to the top of the fort. It was a kind of physical fitness examination too. And they were given grains as monthly wages.
2. Taramati Baradari
This has a secret passage to Charminar(which is obviously closed now by a huge rock), via which the king can reach Charminar in 5 minutes.
3. A ruined university(not clearly demarcable)
It seems this was as famous as Nalanda University and foreign students came here and took up residential courses.
4. Ramdas Prison(Ramdas Bandi Khana)
Gopanna also known as Bhaktha Ramdas was a good minister. But few ministers who were jealous of his status in the King's court charged him of being traitor as he spent government money for the renovation of a temple without permission. So he was put into a underground prison for around 12 years during which he didn't have any external contact. There was a hole at the top of his prison through which sunlight entered and through which food and water were sent to him. So during this years, he has inscribed the images of Goddess Saraswathi and other Gods in the walls of his prison.
5. Granary to store grains
6. Rooms of Queens
7. Horse stables
8. Taramati Masjid
A mosque for Taramati to pray after she got converted to Muslim religion
9. One Kali temple and Nandi temple at the top of the fort
10. Water tanks.
There were step by step tanks - meaning tanks at each level using which the water was first transported/moved from first level to the next and so on till the top of the fort.
11. Gun powder artillery
12. Place to bathe the dead of the royal family before taking them for burial
And gardens and fountains and many more.
Version of the Taramati/Bhagmathi story as heard from the guide a year back:
Taramati and Bhagyamathi were two dancers and the king fell in love with both. When he proposed, Taramati was there but Bhagyamathi ran away out of shy(Bhagyamathi sharmaake baag gayi). So he married Taramathi ; renamed her Hyder Begum; and created a town in the name of Bhagmathi (Bhagya nagar).
Other version which I read, which seems more true:
Bhagmathi was the prime courtesan during King Abdullah Qutb Shah's grandfather's (mohammed Quli Qutb Shah) times. The same way Taramati and Premamati were famous courtesans during King Abdullah Qutb Shah's times and Taramati was the prime courtesan and was close to the King. It seems as a honour to them, their tombs are placed next to the Kings in Qutb Shahi tombs.
Places yet to visit:
Purani Haveli (and Nizam's museum)
Chowmahalla Palace
Qutb Shahi Tombs
King Kothi Palace
Asman Garh Palace
Falaknuma Palace - it seems they are converting it to luxury hotel
Any information regarding the above places is welcome.
P.S: Sorry! Will take photos next time
Labels: travel
4 Comments:
Good summary Fathima!! I hope you are doing well in Hyderabad now. Please change your location in the profile to Hyderabad.
nicely written.. have u moved to hyderabad?
Wishing You Many Happy Returns of The Day - Thanigai
Thanks Narayanan. Changed my location.
Yes Munch, I moved to Hyd.
Thanks Thanigai. But how did u know?
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